This post contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase through links on our site, I may earn a small commission. Click to see full details of my Privacy Policy.
Pin it now, make later!
Crochet stockings are a wonderful project to enjoy in the lead-up to Christmas, and you can customise your make with your favourite yarn colours to suit your festive style. Choose classic Christmas shades for a traditional look, or experiment with soft neutrals and modern colours to create a stocking that’s uniquely yours.
In this blog, you’ll find everything you need, including a free step-by-step pattern and video tutorial in both right and left-handed versions to teach you how to make these beautiful festive stockings.
Project Overview
A festive stocking worked toe up in the Moroccan lattice stitch. It looks intricate, but it’s just V-stitches and granny clusters in two colours, finished with a ribbed cuff and a sprig of holly. This Stocking is part of the Moroccan Holly Collection.
Skill level: Intermediate
Sizes: One Size
Finished Fit: Toe to heel 20.5cm (8in), heel to top of cuff 27cm (10.5in), cuff 5cm (2in) when folded
Construction: Worked in one piece from the toe up, in the round, in Moroccan lattice stitch. The heel is worked in rows and seamed, and the cuff ribbing is worked sideways and joined as you go.
This post contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase through links on our site, I may earn a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Written in UK terms but switchable to US terms above.
Back Loop Only: BLO
Beginning: beg
Magic Ring: MR
Main Colour: MC
Repeat: rep
Slip Stitch: ss
Space(s): sp(s)
Stitch(es): st(s)
Treble Crochet(s): tr(s):Yarn over, insert into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have three loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops.
Double Crochet(s): dc(s): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have two loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops.
Half Treble Crochet(s): htr(s): Yarn over, insert into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have three loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining three loops.
Special Stitches
Cluster space: Cluster sp: The chain 2 space between granny clusters below it.
Granny Cluster(s): Three tr worked in one space.
Half Treble Crochet 2 together(s): htr-2tog(s): (Yarn over, insert into next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop) twice. You will have five loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through all five loops.
V-Stitch(s): Vst(s): (Tr, ch 2, tr) in same space.
Stacked Double Crochet(s): st-dc(s): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have two loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops. Insert hook into the front leg of the stitch which is furthest away from the hook. Yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have two loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops.
Convert Pattern Terms
Here you can quickly switch between UK and US crochet terms. This will make following the pattern easier as all terms will be converted to your preferred version.
Pattern Notes
The stocking is worked in one piece from the toe up. The toe and foot are worked in the round, the heel is worked in rows and seamed, and then the leg continues in the round.
The cuff ribbing is worked sideways and joined to the top of the leg as you go. The hanger and holly are made separately and sewn on at the end.
Rounds are worked with the right side facing and are not turned. Only the heel and cuff are worked in turned rows.
Several hooks are used: 4mm for the stocking, 4.5mm for the cuff ribbing, 4mm for the holly and 6mm for the hanger, which is worked with two strands of MC held together.
Gauge is not critical for a stocking, but working tighter or looser will change the finished size and the amount of yarn you need.
The two samples use the same colours switched between MC and CC. Check the yardage table for your chosen colourway before buying yarn.
The Moroccan lattice stitch alternates colours every round: MC rounds are V-stitches and CC rounds are granny clusters. Both colours stay attached throughout, so there is no need to cut your yarn between rounds.
At the end of each round, pull up a loop, remove your hook and place a stitch marker in the loop to stop it unravelling. Then pick up the waiting loop of the other colour to work the next round.
Always keep MC to the front of your work and CC to the back when you swap colours. This stops the two yarns twisting around each other.
Stitch Notes
Ch 1 at the start of a round or row does not count as a stitch.
The granny clusters are worked through both thicknesses: the ch-2 sp of the V-stitch and the sp between the granny clusters below. This is what locks the lattice together, so take your time with the first few rounds.
A stacked dc is used at the start of the CC rounds in place of a ch 3, giving a neater, less visible join (see abbreviations).
Use the round tracker on the pdf to keep your place. The numbers in bold are the V-stitch (MC) rounds.
Stitch counts are given in angled brackets at the end of each round or row, for example <18 Vsts>.
Leave long tail ends where indicated, as these are used for seaming the heel and attaching the hanger and holly.
Gauge
Toe measures 7cm (2.75in) approx. after 5 rounds. 5 Vsts and 9.5 Vst rounds per 10cm x 10cm (4in x 4in) measured over main stitch pattern.
Completed Size
Toe to heel: 20.5cm (8in) Heel to top of cuff: 27cm (10.5in) Cuff, when folded: 5cm (2in)
Free Pattern: Moroccan Holly Stocking
You are viewing this pattern in UK terms.
Toe
1-5
Using MC and 4mm hook, make MR.
Round 1: Work 6 htr in MR. Join with ss to first st. <6 htr>
Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as st here or throughout). Work 2 htr in each st around. Join with ss to first st. <12 htr>
Round 3: Ch 1, htr in first st, 2 htr in next st. *htr in next st, 2 htr in next st; rep from * around. Join with ss to first st. <18 htr>
Round 4: Ch 1, htr in first 2 sts, 2 htr in next st. *htr in next 2 sts, 2 htr in next st; rep from * around. Join with ss to first st. <24 htr>
Round 5: Ch 1, htr in first 3 sts, 2 htr in next st. *htr in next 3 sts, 2 htr in next st; rep from * around. Join with ss to first st. <30 htr>
6-9
Round 6: Ch 1, htr in first 4 sts, 2 htr in next st. *htr in next 4 sts, 2 htr in next st; rep from * around. Join with ss to first st. <36 htr>
Round 7: Ch 1, htr in first 5 sts, 2 htr in next st. *htr in next 5 sts, 2 htr in next st; rep from * around. Join with ss to first st. <42 htr>
Round 8: Ch 1, htr in first 6 sts, 2 htr in next st. *Htr in next 6 sts, 2 htr in next st; rep from * around. Join with ss to first st. <48 htr>
Round 9: Ch 1, htr in first 7 sts, 2 htr in next st. *Htr in next 7 sts, 2 htr in next st; rep from * around. Join with ss to first st. <54 htr>
Foot
10-12
Round 10: Ch 1, dc in first st, ch 2, skip 2 sts. *Dc in next st, ch 2, skip 2 sts; rep from * around. Join with ss to first st. Pull up loop, remove hook & place stitch marker in the loop to hold it. <18 dc, 18 ch-sps>
Always keep MC to the front.
Join CC to ch-2 sp after the join.
Round 11: Ch 3 (counts as tr), 2 tr in same sp, skip a st, *3 tr in ch-2 sp (granny cluster made), skip a st; rep from * around. Join with ss to beg ch-3. Pull up loop & remove hook. <18 granny clusters>
Always keep CC to the back.
Pick up MC.
Round 12: Ch 5 (counts as tr and ch-2), tr in same st. *Vst in next dc from Round 10; rep from * around. Join with ss to third ch of beg ch-5. Pull up loop & remove hook. Place stitch marker in loop to secure. <18 Vsts>
Pick up CC.
13-34
Round 13: Working through both thicknesses around, work a st-dc through the ch-sp of Vst from previous round and sp between granny clusters, work 2 tr in same sp. *3 tr in next Vst/cluster sp; rep from * around. Join with ss in top of st-dc. Pull up loop & remove hook. <18 granny clusters>
Pick up MC.
Round 14: Ch 5 (counts as tr and ch-2), tr in same st. *Vst in next sp between Vsts from two rounds previous; rep from * around. Join with ss to third ch of beg ch-5. Pull up loop & remove hook. <18 Vsts>
Rounds 15-34: Rep Rounds 13 and 14, ten more times.
Do not fasten off or change colour.
Heel
With MC
The heel section will be worked over 8 Vsts.
1-5
Row 1: Ss into next ch-sp. Ch 1, working through both thicknesses, work 2 htr in ch-2 sp of Vsts and sp between granny clusters, (htr in next sp between Vsts and middle tr of granny cluster, 2 htr in next Vst and sp between granny clusters) seven times. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn. <23 htr>
Row 2: Ch 1, htr in each st across. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, htr in first 9 sts, htr-2tog, htr, htr-2tog, htr in last 9 sts. Turn. <21 sts>
Row 4: Ch 1, htr in first 8 sts, htr-2tog, htr, htr-2tog, htr in last 8 sts. Turn. <19 sts>
Row 5: Ch 1, htr in first 7 sts, htr-2tog, htr, htr-2tog, htr in last 7 sts. Turn. <17 sts>
6-8
Row 6: Ch 1, htr in first 6 sts, htr-2tog, htr, htr-2tog, htr in last 6 sts. Turn. <15 sts>
Row 7: Ch 1, htr in first 5 sts, htr-2tog, htr, htr-2tog, htr in last 5 sts. Turn. <13 sts>
Row 8: Ch 1, htr in first 4 sts, htr-2tog, htr, htr-2tog, htr in last 4 sts. Turn. <11 sts>
Fasten off leaving a 20cm (8in) long tail end for sewing.
Seaming Heel
Fold work so that the first and last st of row 8 are together and stitches align.
Using a darning needle, thread up tail end and whip stitch across row 8 to create seam. Sew in tail end.
Leg
Pick up CC.
35-36
Round 35: Ch 3, 2 tr in Vst where foot meets heel, work 3 tr in first row end of heel, (skip row end, 3 tr in next row end) three times. Skip next row end, seam and row end, (3 tr in next row end, skip row end) three times, 3 tr in final row end. Working through both thicknesses again, work 3 tr in Vst where the heel meets the foot, *3 tr in next Vst/cluster sp; rep from * around. Join with ss in top of ch-3. Pull up loop & remove hook. <20 granny clusters>
Join MC in sp between Vsts where you have just joined.
Round 36: Ch 5 (counts as tr and ch-2), tr in same st. Skip two sets of granny clusters, (Vst in missed row end of the heel) three times. Skip next granny cluster and row end. Vst in seam, skip row end and granny cluster. (Vst in missed row end of the heel) three times. Skip 2 granny clusters, *Vst in next sp between Vsts from two rounds previous; rep from * around. Join with ss to third ch of beg ch-5. Pull up loop. <18 Vsts>
37-73
Rounds 37-72: Rep Rounds 13 & 14, eighteen more times. Fasten off CC.
Continue with MC
Round 73: Working through both thicknesses, ch 1, *dc in sp between Vsts and middle tr of granny cluster. 2 dc in ch-2 sp of Vst and sp between granny clusters; rep from * around. Join with ss in first st. <54 dc>
Do not fasten off.
Cuff Ribbing
Change to 4.5mm hook, ch 21.
Row 1: Dc in second ch from hook and each ch across. Ss in next 2 sts from Round 73. Turn. <20 dc, 2 ss>
Row 2: Skip 2 ss, BLO-dc in next 19 sts, dc in last st. Turn. <19 BLO-dc, 1 dc>
Row 3: Ch 1, dc in first st, BLO-dc in next 19 sts, ss in next 2 sts from final round of leg. Turn. <1 dc, 19 dc, 2 ss>
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 around omitting the final ss on the last row 3. Fold first and last row together. Working through both thicknesses, ss in each st across to the end.
Fasten off and sew in ends.
Fold cuff over halfway.
Hanger
With two strands of MC and a 6mm hook, make a 21-cm (8¼in) Romanian cord. Leave a long tail end for sewing.
Using tail ends, fold the cord in half and sew to the inside edge of the stocking on the same side as the heel below the fold of the cuff. Ensure the cord is secure.
Round 1: Work 3 tr in fourth ch from hook (missed ch counts as a tr), tr in next 3 chs, htr in next ch, dc in next ch, (ss, ch 2, ss) in last ch. Rotate to work down the underside of ch, dc in next ch, htr in next ch, tr in next 3 chs, 3 tr in next ch. Join with ss to first missed ch. Do not turn. <13 tr, 2 htr, 2 dc, 2 ss, 1 ch-2>
Round 2: Ch 1, dc in first st, [dc in next st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next st] twice. Dc in next 2 sts, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next st. Dc in next st, skip ss, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, skip ss. Dc in next st, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, dc in next 2 sts, [(dc, ch 2, dc) in next st, dc in next st] twice. Join with ss to first st. Fasten off leaving a 23cm (9in) long tail end for sewing. <25 dc, 7 ch-2 sps>
Finishing Off
Once you have made two leaves, add your berries to one leaf and then use same tail end to attach the second leaf.
Use the tail end from the second leaf to attach to your stocking.
I have placed mine on the opposite side to the hanger and below the cuff ribbing. However, you can have fun playing around with this and find which placement you like the most.
Once attached, sew in any remaining ends.
Facebook Community
The Crochet Club is a place to come to give or receive help, guidance, support and inspiration for anything crochet/yarn related. Helping you to stay motivated and improve your skills no matter what level you are!
I always love to see your makes so if you try any of my patterns or follow my stitch tutorials please tag me @bellacococrochet or use the #bellacococrochet
Sarah-Jayne Fragola is the founder of Bella Coco Crochet and one of the world's most-followed crochet educators, with over 2.5 million followers across YouTube, Instagram, and social media. She has been teaching crochet since 2011, has published two books, and has helped millions of people learn to crochet through her blog, tutorials, and The Crochet Community membership.
Sign up for exclusive offers, original stories, events and more.
Welcome
Welcome to this creative space where you can learn to crochet or enhance your skills. This website is packed full of hints, tips, tutorials and inspiration for all skill levels.