Cardigans & Cover Ups / Garments How to Crochet the Jasmine Cardigan August 19, 2026 Written by Sarah-Jayne Fragola This post contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase through links on our site, I may earn a small commission. Click to see full details of my Privacy Policy. Pin it now, make later! Learn how to crochet the Jasmine cardigan with my free step-by-step pattern and video tutorial. Designed with an airy openwork stitch pattern, this crochet cardigan is the perfect finishing touch for warmer days, adding just the right amount of style and comfort without feeling too heavy. Whether you’re heading to the beach, enjoying a garden get-together, or simply looking for an extra layer on a cool summer evening, this lacy crochet cardigan is a versatile wardrobe staple you’ll reach for again and again! TABLE OF CONTENTS1. Materials & Tools2. Alternative Yarn Suggestions3. Where To Shop Yarn4. PDF Pattern5. Terms & Abbreviations6. Convert Pattern Terms7. Pattern Notes8. Gauge9. Gauge Swatch10. Completed Size11. Yarn Quantities12. The Jasmine Cardigan: Free Pattern13. Back Panel14. Front Panels 15. (Make 2)16. XS, S, L, XL, 2X, 4X, 5X ONLY17. M & 3X ONLY18. 5-719. 8-7120. Sleeves21. All Sizes (make 2)22. Time to block23. Assembly24. Connecting back and front panels25. Attaching the sleeves26. Side and underarm seams27. Front Opening28. Need Pattern Support? Join Our Facebook Group29. Video Tutorials30. Right-handed31. Left-handed32. What to Crochet Next?33. Join Our Crochet Community34. Check Out The Latest On The Blog35. How to Crochet the Jasmine Cardigan36. Cottage Garden Napkin Holder: FREE Crochet Pattern & Video37. Turn your Granny Squares into these Beautiful Crochet ProjectsVIEW MORE▼ Materials & Tools Yarn: We Crochet Comfy Fingering, super fine/fingering weight (#1), 75% Pima Cotton, 25% Acrylic, 199m (218yds)/ 50g (1.76oz) in shade Flamingo (B982) Hook: 4mm (G-6) or size need to obtain gauge. Darning Needle Scissors Measuring Tape Blocking Mats Blocking Pins Binding Clips Alternative Yarn Suggestions WeCrochet Stroll 75% Merino, 25% Nylon, superfine/fingering weight (#1). 231yds, 50g. Comes in 53 shades. Ships worldwide from US Hobbii Rainbow Deluxe 8/4, 100% cotton, superfine/fingering weight (#1). 185.91yds, 50g. Comes in 62 shades. Ships worldwide. UK LINK | US LINK Where To Shop Yarn Wool Warehouse we crochet Mary maxium love crafts Herrschners hobbii PDF Pattern etsy bella coco crochet ravelry Terms & Abbreviations Stitch(s): st(s) Space(s): sp(s) Repeat: rep Slip Stitch(s): ss(s): Insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook. Chain(s): ch(s): Yarn over, pull through loop on the hook. Double Crochet(s): dc(s): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have two loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops. Half Treble Crochet(s): htr(s): Yarn over, insert into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have three loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining three loops. Treble Crochet(s): tr(s): Yarn over, insert into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have three loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops. Convert Pattern Terms Here you can quickly switch between UK and US crochet terms. This will make following the pattern easier as all terms will be converted to your preferred version. view in UK terms view in US terms Pattern Notes Written in UK terms but it is switchable to US terms above. Skill Level: Advanced Beginner This pattern is made up by creating a solid back panel, two narrow front panels and two short sleeves. Once all panels are made, the top scalloped edge gets turned upside down to become the hem. Each panel will be sewn together using whip stitch before adding a few rows to the front opening to finish. The number references for each size will be listed as follows: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X) unless otherwise stated. Gauge 23 sts X 10 rows per 10cm X 10cm (4in X 4in) measured over main stitch pattern after blocking. Gauge Swatch Chain 38, follow instructions for back panel for 17 rows. Count your stitches over row 2 (the scalloped row) Completed Size Measurements are approximate and after blocking. The number references for each size will be listed as follows: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X). Each cell shows (inches/cm). ALengthB WidthCCirc.DArm Circ.ESleeve LengthFNeckXS25/63.5 17.5/44.5 35/89 12/30.55/134/10S25/63.520.75/52.7541.5/105.513/335/134/10M26.5/6722.25/56.544.5/11314/34.55/134/10L26.5/6724/6148/12216/40.55/134/10XL27.5/7025.5/64.7551/129.517/435/135.75/14.52X27.5/7028.75/7357.5/14618/45.55/136/153X29/73.530.5/76.7560.5/153.520/515/136/154X29/73.532/81.2564/162.521/535/136/155X29/73.533.5/8567/17023/58.55/137.5/19 Yarn Quantities The Jasmine Cardigan is a relaxed fit with approximately 13-19cm (5- 7.5 inches) of positive ease. It’s designed as an open cardigan. XSSMLXLTo fit chest size76cm/30in86cm/34in96cm/38in106cm/42in117cm/46inApprox.Yardage9681108116412551378Balls (50g)56667 2X3X4X5XTo fit chest size127cm/50in137cm/54in147cm/58in157cm/62inApprox.Yardage1509161317181796Balls (50g)788*9 All measurements are approximate based on the medium sample. I have added a buffer to these amounts but may differ if gauge is not met. Please be aware that modifications will affect the yardage. *Note for 4X: this size sits just within 8 balls, so a slightly looser tension could tip you over. If you can, buy a spare ball from the same dye lot! The Jasmine Cardigan: Free Pattern Back Panel With 4mm hook, ch 101 (119, 128, 137, 146) (164, 173, 182, 191). Row 1: Working in back bumps of the ch, dc in second ch from hook, *skip 3 chs, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next 2 chs, skip 3 chs, dc in next ch; rep from * across. Turn. <44 (52, 56, 60, 64) (72, 76, 80, 84) tr, 22 (26, 28, 30, 32) (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-2 sps, 12 (14, 15, 16, 17)(19, 20, 21, 22) dc> Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as st here or throughout), dc in first st. * (4 tr in next ch-2 sp) twice, dc in next dc; rep from * across. Turn. <11 (13, 14, 15, 16)(18, 19, 20, 21) shells> Row 3: Ch 6 (counts as tr and ch 3), skip first 3 tr, dc in next 2 sts, *skip next 3 tr, ch 3, tr in dc, skip next 3 tr, ch 3, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * until you have 4 sts remaining. Skip next 3 tr, ch 3, tr in last dc. Turn. Row 4: Ch 1, dc in first st, *skip ch-3 sp, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next 2 sts, skip ch-3 sp, dc in next st; rep from * across. Turn. <st count as row 1> Rows 5–61 (61, 64, 64, 67) (67, 70, 70, 70): Repeat rows 2–4. Row 62 (62, 65, 65, 68) (68, 71, 71, 71): Repeat row 2. Fasten off. You can add or remove rows in multiples of 3 (one full repeat of rows 2–4) to adjust the length of your cardigan. Keep to complete groups of 3 so your stitch pattern stays aligned, and finish on a row 2 as written. Make a note of your row count here if you’ve made any changes, as you’ll need it to match the front panels. Front Panels (Make 2) With 4mm hook, chain 38, (47, 52, 56, 56) (65, 70, 74, 74) XS, S, L, XL, 2X, 4X, 5X ONLY Rows 1-62 (62, -, 65, 68) (68, -, 71, 71): Repeat rows 1 – 62 (62, -, 65, 68) (68, -, 71, 71) for the back panel. <4 (5, -, 6, 6)(7, – , 8, 8) shells> M & 3X ONLY This section of the pattern will be written in M (3X) Row 1: Working in back bumps of the ch, dc in second ch from hook, *skip 3 chs, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next 2 chs, skip 3 chs, dc in next ch; rep from * across until you have 5 chs remaining, skip 3 chs, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next st, htr in final st. Turn. Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as htr here and throughout), 4 tr in next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc. *(4 tr in next ch-2 sp) twice, dc in next dc; rep from * across. Turn. <5.5 (7.5) shells> Row 3: Ch 6 (counts as tr and ch 3), skip first 3 tr, dc in next 2 sts, *ch 3, skip next 3 tr, tr in dc, skip next 3 tr, ch 3, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * across. Turn. Row 4: Ch 2, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next st, skip ch-3, dc in next st, *skip ch-3 sp, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next 2 sts, skip ch-3 sp, dc in next st; rep from * across working final dc in third ch of ch-6. Turn. 5-7 Row 5: Ch 1, dc in first st. * (4 tr in next ch-2 sp) twice, dc in next dc; rep from * four (six) more times. 4 tr in next ch-2 sp, htr in last st. Turn. Row 6: Ch 1, dc in first 2 sts, *ch 3, skip next 3 tr, tr in dc, ch 3, skip next 3 tr, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * across until you have 4 sts remaining. Ch 3, Skip next 3 tr, tr in last st. Turn. Row 7: Ch 1, dc in first st, *skip ch-3 sp, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next 2 sts, skip ch-3 sp, dc in next st; rep from * across to final ch-3 sp. Skip ch-3 sp, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next st, htr in last st. Turn. 8-71 Rows 8-61 (67): Repeat rows 2–7. Rows 62 (68)-65 (71): Repeat rows 2-5. Fasten off. Sleeves All Sizes (make 2) With 4mm hook, chain 65 (74, 83, 92, 101) (110, 119, 128, 137) Row 1: Follow row 1 of the back panel. <28 (32, 36, 40, 44)(48, 52, 56, 60) tr, 14 (16, 18, 20, 22) (24, 26, 28, 30) ch-2 sps, 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) (13, 14, 15, 16) dc> at the end of row 1. Rows 2-4: Follow rows 2-4 of the back panel. <7 (8, 9, 10, 11) (12, 13, 14, 15) shells> Rows 5-13: Repeat rows 2- 5 of the back panel three more times. Row 14: Follow row 2 of the back panel. Fasten off. Time to block Now is the time to steam block your work.Use blocking pins and mats to shape your work ensuring that the front and back panels are the same height, the front panels are the same width and the sleeves are the same size. Blocking your work really shows off the pattern. Assembly You are now going to assemble your back and front panels, and then your sleeves. A note on orientation: Although the panels are worked from the bottom up, the piece is turned upside down to wear – the last row you worked (the scalloped edge) becomes the bottom hem of the cardigan, and your foundation chain edge becomes the shoulder seam. Before you clip anything, turn all three panels so the foundation chain edges are at the top and the scalloped edges are at the bottom. Connecting back and front panels Begin by laying the back panel with the right side facing you, then place the front panels over the top with right sides facing the back panel. If you are working size M or 3X, ensure the half shells are closest to each other, so they sit either side of the front opening. Align the side edges and use binding clips to hold the shoulder seams in place. With a strand of yarn (three times the width of your front panel), whip stitch each front panel to the back at the shoulder seams ensuring patterns on panels align. Attaching the sleeves Open the work out flat so the back panel and front panels lie in one piece, with the shoulder seams running across the middle and the right side facing up. The sleeves are attached along the side edges of the work, one on each side. Take one sleeve and fold its top edge in half to find the centre. Matching this centre point to the shoulder seam, lay the sleeve against the side edge of the work with right sides together, so the sleeve sits evenly either side of the shoulder seam. Hold in place with binding clips, working out from the centre in both directions. With a strand of yarn (three times the width of your sleeve edge), whip stitch the sleeve to the work along this edge. Fasten off and repeat with the second sleeve on the opposite side. Side and underarm seams Fold the work at the shoulder seams so the front and back panels come together with right sides facing in (the work now inside out). The scalloped hems should line up at the bottom and the sleeve edges should meet along the top. Use binding clips to hold the edges together, matching the underarm corner on the front and back so it meets neatly. With a strand of yarn (three times the length of the seam – or do this in smaller sections if you prefer), and starting at the scalloped hem, whip stitch up the side of the body to the underarm, then continue around the corner and along the underarm to the lower edge of the sleeve, working as one continuous line. Fasten off and repeat on the second side. Front Opening Using a 4mm hook and with the right side facing, attach yarn to the bottom corner of the right front opening edge, at the hem. Set up row: Working up the first front opening edge, work 1 dc into each double crochet row-end and 2 dc into each half treble or treble crochet row-end, ending at the neck. Rotate the work to work across the neckline. You will now be working along the underside of the foundation chain: work 1 dc into the base of each dc or tr, and 3 dc into each ch-3 space (the skipped 3- chs when working the foundation). Rotate the work again to work down the second opening edge, working the same row-end rule as the first edge (1 dc into each dc row-end, 2 dc into each htr or tr row end), ending at the hem. Turn. Rows 1 & 2: Ch 1, dc in each st around front opening. Fasten off. Sew in any remaining ends. You may wish to give your work another gentle steam paying particular attention to the front opening. Need Pattern Support? Join Our Facebook Group The fastest way to get pattern support is to ask in our dedicated facebook group for Bella Coco Crochet patterns. This is the best place for you to connect with other crocheters. Please note, if you wish to change and adapt this pattern in any way, this must be done at your own exploration and we cannot offer assistance with this. Video Tutorials Right-handed Left-handed What to Crochet Next? Libby Tee Florrie Tee Skylar Sweater Sharma Cardigan Sharma Shawl Sharma Cover Up Join Our Crochet Community I always love to see your makes so if you try any of my patterns or follow my stitch tutorials please tag me @bellacococrochet or use the #bellacococrochet sarah-jayne Check Out The Latest On The Blog How to Crochet the Jasmine Cardigan Cottage Garden Napkin Holder: FREE Crochet Pattern & Video Turn your Granny Squares into these Beautiful Crochet Projects Pin it now, make later! Further Reading... Ostara Crochet Vest Top – Free Crochet Pattern April 26, 2023 How To Crochet a Floral Cardigan in 8 Sizes! January 7, 2026 Dune Crochet Bucket Hat – Free Crochet Pattern March 22, 2023 No Comments Leave a Reply Cancel Reply Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Notify me of new posts by email.
